Just practicing/learning to make lithophanes. Very cool.

Update: I've since learned that printing Lithophanes on their EDGE, vertically, is far far superior. The quality is so much better, that I no longer switch to my 0.25 nozzle, nor .04 layer thickness. I get fantastic lithophanes from my 0.4 nozzle and printing at 0.1 thickness. But, larger is better. Small details, esp dark ones, like EYES are still a challenge. My current lithophanes are usually 80x80. I got the vertical idea from www.thingiverse.com/thing:2718124.

Update2: Uploaded a vertical model with break-away stand.

Update3: By request, I've uploaded the frame I used for this light, and a picture of the light I bought from Amazon for this project. You can find this light by searching Amazon for: "ZEEFO Wireless Motion Sensor LED Night Light". NOTE The Wolf Lithophane no longer has the recessed edges to fit into this frame. These things are uploaded as a reference to the original project. If you're not good at modeling, and you'd like the full project refined back into something you can print yourself without much editing, drop me a comment or message. If I get enough interest in the project, I will reproduce the whole thing for download. Keep in mind, you'll still need 5 Lithophanes to fill all the frame sides. I suppose I could also make extra Lithophanes to choose from.

Update4: Uploaded the wolf lithophane with a frame made for the light box frame.

Ultimaker

Ultimaker 2

No

No

.4 noz, .1 layer

100%

Used my 0.25mm nozzle and my thinnest layer setting for the laying down model. But, for the vertical print with stand, 0.4 nozzle and 0.1mm layer work nicely.
Also very important to use 100% infill and choose a pattern that leaves absolutely no holes. I used "rectilinear/rectilinear" in S3D.
Small lithophanes are hard to print.