Summary
Thin buttplate for the IWI X95 since the OEM one is constantly OOS. This cuts ~ 5 oz and ~1" from the OAL of the X95.
Keep in mind this will drop the 16" barrel version under the magic 26" OAL limit for an SBR defined in the NFA in the US.
WIP - needs mass testing since I only have my own X95 to verify fitment with
Post
questions to this thread: https://old.reddit.com/r/Tavor/comments/s5i78q/testers_needed_for_thin_x95_buttplate_stl/?
Print Settings
Rafts:
Doesn't Matter
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
.2
Notes:
Print with as many walls as it takes to make the plate and tabs solid. The bottom hinge will be fine with some infil as long as the plate is solid. I'm still testing the best orientation and support method. Tree supports in Cura seem to be the best. I recommend either printing on it's side (for textured model) or laying down (for non texture model) to minimize support interference.
The edge tabs, center plate, hinge post, and buffer relief MUST be smooth or it will not fit correctly.
Post-Printing
Fitment Notes
- You might need to ream out the top post holes to fit your pins but you can do it with a hand drill bit (1/4" is about perfect)
- You will need the buffer block in place to support the tabs during the fitment
- Push the top posts from the back of the plate for easier insertion. I've rounded the edges for this purpose. Might be worth sanding the corners to make it easier. You can push the posts further than needed, line them up with the receiver pin, then push the plate the rest of the way onto the posts to get a flush fit. You can also take some calipers and measure your holes so you can print the tabs smaller (shrink them in your slicer of choice in the appropriate dimension)
- If your post holes are too small, you can lay the posts flat on some sandpaper and make them thinner until they fit. They should be snug enough to stay in place but should be able to push them through with your hand and some force. Alternatively you can measure the holes and resize the posts in your slicer accordingly.
- Once the tabs are lined up (verify with the push pin) and the plate is flush, remove the assembly and use liquid (NOT gel) super glue at the crevice where the posts and plate meet. The liquid will wick into the gap left by the non uniform plastic and make it a single part. Obviously don't do this while it's in the stock.
How I Designed This
Designed by hand using trial/error on my own X95 and harbor freight calipers. I didn't have the actual thin buttplate for reference so this is a 100% original design.
- Inner tabs on the plate act to stabilize plate from side pressures
- this was the knurling that felt the best on the shoulder/bare skin while still being useful. I left the unknurled option in case you want to use grip tape or something similar. Printed a bunch of test sample rectangles until I found one I liked
- Relief cut midway down is for the buffer to fit without pushing into the plate. Without this the upper posts will break under recoil from the impact
- Square plate at the top gives just enough spacing to push the buffer block in line with the pins without letting it put pressure on the upper posts
- Upper posts printed separately to use less supports, allow for custom fitment, and to provide some extra strength
Change log
19-JAN-2022
release v0.4
- added material and 45 degree chamfers to as much as I can. Done to minimize the amount of supports needed. Anywhere with a 45 degree doesn't need a support but might need a support blocker depending on your slicer
- updated instructions
- Added 6.35mm hole variant of top posts for some additional drill bit clearance
Model Source
