You will need

• This lantern: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NPLSZF8 
• M4x20 coupling nut
• M4 threaded eyelet
• M4x30 threaded stud
• Optional:
  • 1-inch PVC (if you want the pole version)
  • a USB pigtail with an inline switch (if you want the pole version)
  • a 5-ish Ohm resistor (if you want to pole version)
  • 3 M5x6-ish heat set insert (if you want the lantern version)

Before you print, consider:

• The “Topper”, “Vents”, and “Bottom” pieces are intended to be printed with a resin printer, you may get away with an FDM printer, but I wouldn't recommend it.
• The “Filter” piece is printed with specific print settings to get the gridded look. Use translucent PETG of a color of your choice (I went with orange)
  • 1 Wall
  • Cubic Infill at 30%
• You'll need to drill a 4mm hole into the top of the upper shell (disassemble everything first). and you'll need to replace the M4 nut that is pressed into the upper assembly with the coupling nut.
• If you want to use USB instead, de-solder the two leads from the battery connector (leaving those leads as long as possible) drill a hole into the bottom shell and the battery container, and thread the leads through. solder that resistor to one lead, and when its ready to be assembled, solder them to the pigtails. The Bottom-Stand-Inner is sized to fit that 1-inch PVC pipe. You'll need two of those prints: one for the lantern, one for the base.
• Glue the Topper, Bottom, and Vents to the body before you prime and paint. I opted not to paint the Bottom-Pegs or the Bottom-Inner since I used a faux-metal filament. 
• The heat-set inserts go into the “Bottom-Pegs” parts (of which you'll need three) and I used M5 cap head bolts as feet (same goes for the Base, there are holes for heat set inserts so you can do the same there).