I saw CHEPs Bowden 'fix' but I had a hell of a time printing it. In fact, I got it to print but then it was too large to even work so back to the drawing board. Not to say he had a bad design, it just didn't work for me.

What this part does is just put a barrier between the captive tube and the M10 coupler. The threads are tapered a bit more drastically to allow for easier threading. There's holes on the side for a 1.5mm hex key to go into if you need to turn it a bit more than what your fingers can do. Not really necessary but not everyone can turn the same torque.

Tools you'll need:

Wire cutters
1.5mm hex key
Razor

Print Settings:
0.05mm layer
Print Male side down, no supports
30% infill or higher.
(if Thingiverse starts working again, I'll upload my FFF file from Simplify3D)

Steps:

Step 1 - The captive tube is a bit shy of 40mm long. Start with 42.5 and insert all the way into the hot end. take some flush cut wire cutters and mark the top of the cooling block on the tube. Remove and cut there with a razor. Now reinsert it.

Step 2 - Insert onto cooling block and finger tighten.

Step 3 - Thread on the M10 coupler and finger tighten. The entire assembly SHOULD NOT BOTTOM OUT (see photos) on the cooling block. IF it has, you've cut the captured tube too short. Try again. There should be about 2 thread still exposed on the coupler adapter if installed correctly.

Step 4 - Insert tube into M10 coupler and print like normal.

Creality

No

0.05