An adjustable height bracket for a 300x200mm mother honeycomb workbench.

This design is intended for use with the K40 laser cutting machine, providing an adjustable worktable.

Items needed:

• 300 x 200mm laser cutting machine with a mother honeycomb worktable
• 5 100mm M8 threaded rods
• 4 pieces of 608ZZ bearings
• 8 M8 nuts
• 8 M8 square nuts or half-height locking nuts
• 2 M8 nylock locking nuts
• 8 M8 washers
• 4 GT2 drive rollers with an 8-mm shaft
• 2 driven rollers of GT2 with a 3mm shaft
• 1 GT2 6mm timing belt with a length of 1250mm
• 2 M3 bolts, 20mm in length
• 4 M3 washers
• 2 M3 nylock nuts
• 19mm x 19mm x 1.6mm aluminum square tube
  • 2 pieces, 300mm in length each
  • 2 pieces, 200mm in length each
  • 2 pieces, 280mm in length each
  • 2 pieces, 180mm in length

Assembly instructions:

The upper frame is composed of two 280mm and 180mm square tubes and corner brackets with longer arms and M8 nut holes in the downward direction. The base is composed of two 300mm and 200mm square tubes and four corner brackets with bearing holes in the upward direction at the bottom.

Install a square nut, a washer, a bearing, a GT2 gear, and then an M8 nut at the bottom of the four threaded rods. Tighten the nuts at both ends and press the bearing into the bottom component. The screw rod should be able to rotate freely, and the bearing should be firmly in place.

There should be an M8 nut embedded in the groove of each top corner piece, and then you can assemble the frame, temporarily just by manually rotating the screws.

Tighten the arm, push in an M3 nylock nut from below, then insert the driven roller on an M3 20mm bolt with a washer on each side into the hole and fasten it to the nylock nut. Install the slicer on the arm, insert a second M3 bolt through the bottom slider, also with the same configuration of driven roller and washer on top, and secure it with a nylock nut. The two driven rollers should be able to rotate freely.

Slide two M8 square nuts into the grooves at the bottom of the slider, then pass the M8 screw through the outer hole of the corner piece, through the center of the slider, and through these square nuts until it reaches the groove on the far side wall of the tension arm. Secure the outer end of the screw with another nylock nut.

Now, you can wrap the GT2 timing belt around the outer gear of the screw and pass it through the two tensioning rollers in a Z-shape.

If the tightness of the nylock nut is too high to adjust it by rotating the nylock nut, you can use the same printed object to fasten the driven roller, but you need to remove it during use, as leaving the fastener in place will result in insufficient clearance.

When the belt is loose, adjust the height of each corner so that they are all the same, then tighten the tensioner until the belt is taut. Finally, push the adjustment knob into the nylock nut on one threaded rod, and cover the other threaded rods with a small cap.

Then, put your mother cell workbench into the frame. It should rest on the small steps of each corner piece. Adjust the height of the workbench with the knob. All four threaded rods should rotate at the same speed, lifting the workbench evenly. If any corner slips, increase the tension of the belt.