UPDATE: No changes to the model, but I have now uploaded the individual pieces as seperate STLs too.

While PETG can generally be printed without an enclosure, it can benefit from one on trickier prints - and some parts of the AD5X enclosure kit can be prone to having issues when printed unenclosed, especially in colder climates.

I don't know if this will be useful for the AD5M. You're welcome to try.

This project creates a makeshift temporary enclosure that's a bit more space-efficient (and a bit more effective in terms of keeping heat in - yes, even despite the gaps) than many typical makeshift enclosures - and if you want, it can also be combined with most typical makeshift enclosures.

This is not really suitable as a permanent enclosure. It's meant to help add a little bit more "edge" for prints that are just barely failing - so, yes, this enclosure will likely be enough to turn a barely-failed PETG print into a successful one; it won't get you printing ABS and other high-temperature materials. The intended use for this is to use while printing warp-prone parts for a permanent enclosure.

If you want to support my work, you can do so by purchasing my paid models: https://www.printables.com/@Trumble/store

It is recommended to print these in PETG. And for best results, preheat the enclosure (by turning the bed on to a high temperature and letting it sit for 20-30 minutes, possibly with the print head fan running) before you begin the prints with it. I have found this setup to be capable of (with the bed at PETG temperatures) maintaining a temperature of about 35c, which appears to be good enough to keep PETG happy even on tricky prints.

You'll also need:
- 4x M4x14 screws [AliExpress - make sure to select the correct size]
- 8x M3x14 screws [AliExpress - make sure to select the correct size]
- 8x countersunk M3x18 screws [AliExpress - make sure to select the correct size]
- Three EVA foam mats (these are the ones with the jigsaw-like teeth along the edges that can be connected together) [I purchased these from local stores]

The slots for holding the EVA foam mats are 10mm thick. Standard size of the mats where I live is 12mm, which is what I have based this on. The slots are intentionally a bit smaller, to hold the mats in place more firmly - a small segment of EVA quite easily will compress down to that size. If you intend to build a permanent enclosure using the same EVA panels, you may wish to order some 10mm thick EVA foam.

Cut out the following sized sections from the EVA mats. Treat these measurements as absolute upper limits; all margin of error is on the "make it smaller" side (where you can get away with being off by up to about 7-8mm, so don't be too fussy).
- 351mm x 287mm (Front)
- 351mm x 281mm, x 2 (Left / Right)

To install:
- All references to "top right", "bottom right" etc are assuming you're looking straight-on at the face in question. For example, the "top left" of the right side of the printer is the corner near the screen.
- The four pieces with M4 screw holes are identical. Three of these go on the front of the printer, in the bottom-left and bottom-right holes, and in the top-right in the hole a couple below the camera screw hole. The fourth one boes on the left side of the printer, in the bottom-right hole.
- The four pieces with a pair of M3 screw holes that do not have an inset on one side, are for the right side of the printer. Remove the spool holders and their mounting clips. Using a pair of countersunk M3x18 screws for each one, reattach the mounting clips through these four pieces. The wider ones are for the right side; the narrower ones are for the left side. Top vs bottom pieces for each side are identical, so it doesn't matter which goes where.
- Of the four remaining pieces, three are for the left side of the printer. The two wider ones go on the left of the left side (doesn't matter which is top vs bottom). One of the remaining two (which are identical to each other) goes on the right. The final piece goes in the top-left of the front of the printer.
- Insert the mats in to the holders. The front one will be inserted and removed as necessary to access the inside of the printer.