I discovered the "Build A Simpsons TV" article in the Volume 79 issue of Make: magazine. The article is by Brandon Withrow and he did an excellent job documenting the build process in the article and on a dedicated web site: https://www.withrow.io/simpsons-tv-build-guide. As I embarked building my own Simpsons TV, I ran into issues being able to obtain the 2.8" display specified in the build instructions as well as audio and OS issues.

In the end, I built my Simpsons TV using a 3.5" display available on Amazon, fixed the audio issues, and enhanced the functionality of the project by adding play/pause, rewind, next video, change "channel", exit python script, and safe power shutdown features for the new VCR buttons highping added.

Of particular note is the safe power shutdown feature. The Raspberry Pi OS features a journaling file system. This means that it can be writing to the SD card at any time. This can potentially be bad if you just remove power without executing a proper shutdown sequence. How bad can this be? Well, let's just say that I've completely ruined several SD cards on Raspberry Pis before I learned this lesson (they had to be thrown away - nonrecoverable). To address this, I created a simple circuit using an Atmega ATtiny microcontroller to monitor the power switch, send a signal to the Pi to shutdown, monitor the activity LED signal on the Pi, then safely remove power from the Pi once all activity has ceased. There are other options to address the safe power shutdown needed by the Pi without using a dedicated microcontroller, which I also cover in my Instructable.

I have included all the instructions on how to build along with the microcontroller and Python code on my Instructable: https://www.instructables.com/The-Simpsons-TV-35-Screen-Version/

I made the following modifications to the Fusion 360 files from highping:

• Changed the display bezel area to accommodate my 3.5" display
• Added screw holes to the VCR box and TV case to make it easy to service the buttons in the VCR should the need arise. This allows you to mount the VCR using two #6 x 3/8" screws to the TV instead of gluing it.
• Changed the volume knob, volume knob base, power switch actuator, and power switch base to be compatible with the volume knob and power switch from Brandon's original design.
• Extended the top front alignment edge to traverse the entire front - this acts as a light block to prevent the display's backlight from bleeding out around the top gap between the TV housing and the TV front.
• Resized the circular holes for the speaker and the four magnets to fit the parts I had on hand.
• Added "foot stop" feature at the four bottom corners of the housing to act as secure stops and glue points for the four feet.

I have posted here the following 3D model file variants:

• STL files - Just download and print
• Autodesk 123D Design Version - To modify the design for your purposes in 123D
• Fusion 360 Version - To modify the design for your purposes in Fusion 360.
• STEP file Version for importing into some other CAD tool for modification.

A total of (14) 3D printed parts are needed.

• TV Housing
• TV Front
• VCR
• Antennae Balls (2x)
• Power Switch Actuator
• Power Switch Base
• Volume Knob
• Volume Knob Base
• TV Foot (4x - Front Left, Front Right, Rear Left, Rear Right)
• Front Grille

MakerGear

MakerGear M2

No

Yes

0.2mm

30%

I printed everything using 0.2mm layer height and 30% infill out of black, light blue, and purple PLA plastic (I used 3D Solutech plastic from Amazon - but most any PLA will do - use what works best for you and your 3D printer).

The picture of all the 3D printed parts shows the print orientation and color I used for each part. I didn't use any supports on the TV Housing, TV Feet, or Antennae Balls. I used minimal supports on everything else. I did not use any rafts, but printed multiple parts at the same time (or multiple copies) for smaller parts to allow some cooling time for each part in between printing layers - this helps improve print quality for the smaller parts (i.e. TV Feet, Knobs/Bases, Front Grille, and Antennae Balls).

After 3D printing, some light filing is usually needed around the base (where the part made contact with the 3D printer bed) or where support material meets a side edge of some of the parts (Knobs/Bases, Front Grille, VCR button holes, and Antennae Feet) in order for them to fit correctly with mating parts. I used a set of small files to do this. You can use a hot-air rework station after filing to remove the "whiting" effect of filing; Use minimal heat and quick passes of the hot air to prevent warping of the part. If you've never done this before, I suggest trying this on a piece of scrap 3D printed plastic to perfect your technique.