Summary

First of all, I would like to express my sincere gratitude to several key figures:
JULEZ_NZ: Thank you for his original mini version of the hugging face worm model
ANGRYCHANO: Thank you for adding the original spherical joint design to the model
DAZZADAZZADAZZADAZZA: Thank you for his new revision based on this model, which features a solid structure and well-connected components. If your 3D printer supports dual nozzles and can print with soluble support materials, or if you just want to try printing with support structures, why not take a look at his revised version based on my original model?

December 2019 — "The number of views has exceeded 250,000!"

The total number of views of our model has successfully exceeded 250,000, and the number of downloads has reached 50,000!

A warm congratulations to all the creators who have shared their "Parasite"-themed 3D-printed works with the world! As long as you've printed it, don't hesitate to show it off—we can't wait to see it in person! To celebrate this milestone, it's time to recommend a series of carefully selected "modified works" to everyone. From these highly compatible and excellent modifications, you can choose the solution that best suits you—after all, having a variety of options is the joy of life!

Do you think you're ready to take on this "tough challenge"?
Without a photo, it's not considered truly finished!

Hudson came to remind everyone, "Stop grinning and quickly put away your linen! This is a life-size alien face-hugger, with a size of up to 40 inches by 23 inches!"
It's huge and menacing, as if it wants to strangle you with its neck and bite your human face off.
Don't expect to knock it out just by shouting 'Game Over' - unless you blow up the entire 3D printer, this 'battle' won't end easily, warrior! To deal with this guy, you'll need plenty of nuclear bombs, sharp knives, and pointed wooden sticks to barely protect yourself. Now, quickly increase the temperature of your hotbed and go all out!"

It's worth mentioning that about 90% of the original mini-hugging-face-worm model has been completely redesigned, including the following specific aspects:
1)Newly designed joints with tighter and more secure connections;
2) All components are no longer just flat structures, but are shaped into a complete skeletal framework, complemented by tendon-like detail designs;
3) The bottom structure of the "face" has also been accurately modeled;
4) We created a brand-new rear end from scratch;
5) Exquisite armor textures and other special effects have been superimposed on the skeletal structure.

I completely self-taught Blender, spending about three weeks repeatedly modeling and printing to refine every detail to perfection. Although it's not flawless, it at least successfully scared off the cat at home - once, when I deliberately shook the model as she approached to sniff it, she was so scared that she did a backflip

Update notes
A special thank you to all of you! You not only completed this project, but also shared your wonderful results with us! Every time I see people "attacking" themselves, their children, their dogs, and even their cats and computers with the "hugging face bug", not to mention the 3D printers that are occasionally "visited" by them, I feel extremely delighted. Although I don't quite understand why the "hugging face bug" always has a special affection for 3D printers, they seem to be particularly fascinated by this non-living "artificial object". Anyway,

Extra bonus! I've already replaced the original fuselage STL file with the repaired STL file provided by rodrifra. Now, by downloading the latest version, you should be able to effectively solve the mesh issues that some users have encountered before. Once again, I'd like to thank rodrifra for their generous help!
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========【Assembly Guide】=========
You need to prepare a glue!
If using PLA material: it is recommended to choose strong adhesive and fine sandpaper;
If you're using ABS material: strong adhesive is also suitable, but I strongly recommend you make your own ABS adhesive paste - put the discarded ABS scraps into a marinating jar, and slowly pour in acetone until the mixture becomes thick like soup... But you must be careful with the volatile gases from acetone - they are both flammable and highly toxic!

*For some specific models of 3D printers, you may also need to enable the "Anti-warping Protection Geometry" function!

A) When printing the printer body, try to use the lowest possible infill density

B) I used a layer thickness of 0.15mm and set the outline line to a wall thickness of 4 layers. This is crucial - the outer layer of the joint must be thick and strong enough to avoid cracking or breaking when assembling the spherical joint due to excessive force. After all, the joint area needs to withstand considerable pressure.

C) In order to ensure a strong bond between the layers, it is recommended to set the printing temperature higher than the usual value.

D) I chose white PLA, but I think ABS material would perform even better - because it has a certain degree of flexibility, which is a clear advantage for joint areas. Although PLA has higher hardness, it lacks sufficient elasticity. If you apply too much force, it's easy to cause cracks in the joints. If your print bed area is large enough, you might consider using PLA for the printer body, while choosing ABS for the legs and tail - of course, if you'd like, you can also add "little mouse ears" decorations to the printer body

E) When assembling joints, it is essential to first sand the joint surface with coarse sandpaper to make it slightly rougher. This way, when applying strong adhesive, the glue can better penetrate and form a strong bond. If you are using ABS material, I strongly recommend making your own ABS adhesive paste - mix the leftover ABS scraps with acetone in a certain proportion and stir until it becomes a medium-thick syrup-like substance. This adhesive paste can firmly fuse all components together, so you no longer have to

F) When printing the tail components, the arrangement order of the various tail parts should follow the principle from left to right and from top to bottom. If your print bed is spacious enough, I have provided you with an STL file containing two legs, which can be printed simultaneously; if the print bed space is limited, it is recommended to use the "OneLeg_PLA.stl" file to print a single leg separately.

G) In the first set of tail components, the large parts connected to the fuselage must be fixed with glue to prevent bending and deformation. Although this part doesn't need to be too tight originally, as it is still a relatively rigid component of the fuselage, if you want the tail to maintain a certain degree of flexibility, you can adjust it flexibly according to your personal preferences. The final handling method entirely depends on your needs and preferences!

H) If the partial printing of a leg fails during a print - this occasionally happens when multiple parts are printed at the same time - I have specifically provided you with separate STL files for each leg, so you can reprint them at any time.

I) Last but not least, if the joints are too tightly fitted together, it's likely due to you extruding too much material. Reduce the extrusion amount appropriately until the gap between the joints is just right. The design of the joints inherently requires a tight fit, so that you can easily pose in various positions - especially when combined with the cool stands we described and shared earlier, it can make your "face-hugging" pose look incredibly lifelike. However, if you obsessively pursue a "perfectly seamless fit", it may actually result in the joint

Just enjoy your creative time to the fullest!

Print settings

Base:

None

Support:

None

Resolution:

0.15mm

Fill density:

Body: 20%; Legs: 40%.