Update 20230701 - I cut about 6mm out of the middle of the profile. The resulting box is just what I wanted. Somewhat slimmer and smaller overall. Maneuvering the circuit card past the mounting holes for the bottom is a trick but it can be done. The bottom needed a small carve-out to avoid the beeper. Also added pictures showing the difference between the first attempt and the slimline version.

I needed a case for the LCD on an Ender 3 Max I'm refurbing. I sort of liked the look of what my wife calls the old fashioned Sci-Fi clunky console design at:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3603662

I didn't care for the branding or the way the parts would print and fit together so I laid out a new case with a similar profile using support-friendly angles from the ground up. While not necessarily a remix thanks to PL Design for some inspiration.

I'm still not happy with the shape. It could definitely be streamlined and I'll probably produce a thinner one soon.

You should be able to use the original M3 bolts on the inside of the case. You'll want an additional 4 M3 bolts if you want to use the cover.

Tip: a Torx T8 screwdriver will work for these M3 bolts if you don't have hex key screwdrivers.

Creality

Ender-3 Max

No

Yes

.2

20%

I use tree supports touching the build plate. It occurs to me if I changed how the back cable hole is laid out I wouldn't need supports there.

Designed from the ground up using digital calipers and 2D/3D CAD software.