After some time, PPM/Quad's pick and place feeder roller's soft outer layer dissolves into mush, a replacement is required to keep the feeders in service. I created this mold system to create more from SirayaTech Blu v2 and Smooth-On Tin Cure Silicone (Shore 60a or higher).

BOM:

• M4 screws and wing nuts
• M1.6*3mm grub screws
• M1.6 nuts
• M1.6 allen keys
• 20ml syringe (non-luer)
• 12mm(OD)*8mm(ID) vinyl tubing

Step 1: Print a handful of Core.stl and install an M1.6 nut into each one.

Step 2: Print the following mold parts and glue Hose Barb.stl to Layer 0.stl. 

These will allow you to mold one wheel at a time. If you'd like to increase the mold capacity, simply print more Layer 2.stl and Layer 3.stl making sure that you alternate Layer 2 Diamonds and Squares so the hole pattern's are offset. 

Additional layers alternating Layer 2

Step 3: Assemble the mold with M4 screws and wing nuts. Cores go onto the Layer 2.stl and are tightened gently with an allen key.

Once the layers are assembled, insert an allen key through each Layer 3.stl and rotate until they mate with the grub screws in the Core.stl. This will ensure a hole is left in the overmolded silicone so the completed rollers can be released from the mold and fixed to a feeder.

Step 4: Mix a batch of tin cure silicone (I used Mold Max 60) and pour it into the syringe. Attach the cap and hold the syringe vertically upside-down until most of the silicone has settled at the tip. By drawing the plunger back you'll create a vacuum that will remove most of the bubbles. 

Connect the syringe to the mold hose barb with a small segment of vinyl tubing, hold everything vertically with the mold on top, and slowly inject silicone into the mold until you see it coming out of the vents at the top. Then stop injecting and wait for silicone to cure.

Step 5: Once the silicone has cured, disassemble the mold and remove the completed rollers. Clean up any flashing with a razor blade. Then install onto a feeder!