This partially inverted plus design is made to be super weird but also equally practical. It is able to get the props out of view of the camera while being super compact. The ability to use 18650 batteries is really convenient and economical. Just make sure not to get too excited while flying as it doesn't have too much punch out. This frame isn't really designed to be the lightest, best performing or the most advanced, it is just to try out a new idea and show what's possible with other frame configurations.

My build on Rotorbuilds for my full parts list: https://rotorbuilds.com/build/27266
Video on the frame design: https://youtu.be/CI2ykUmTqy4
Flight Footage: https://youtu.be/bSuooiEz3OQ

Recommended parts:

Flight Controller and ESC - DarwinFPV F411 AIO, FPV Cycle 1S AIO, NewBeeDrone BeeBrainBL V1 (F4 or better AIO Whoop 25.5 x 25.5 board that supports 1S (preferable more than 5A continuous rating for 3" props))

Motors: RCINPOWER 1202.5 11500Kv (these are the ones I used #teampink), Flywoo Robo RB 1202.5 11500Kv, FPVCycle Light 13mm 11250Kv 1S, and HGLRC AEOLUS 1202.5 11600Kv (I think the RCINPOWER and Flywoo are the same and the FPVCycle are made by RCINPOWER from what I have heard also) (I used the 1.5mm shafts because they are more common but just make sure the props you get correspond to your motor shaft diameter)

Props: HQ T65mm Durable (these are the ones I used, Gemfan 65R, and Gemfan Hurricane 3018 2 blade (Any 65mm/2.5" or 3" 2 blade prop will probably work well) (watch your throttle while using 3" as it can damage the battery and/or ESCs) (again, make sure that your props match the diameter of your motor shaft)

Battery: LG HG2 3000mAh, Samsung 25R 2500mAh, and Sony VTC6 (I use the LG and the Samsung as they are a good value usually) (a lot more batteries will work with this build, just make sure they can handle 20A continuous and 30A burst, especially if you are using 3" props) (you don't have to buy from this website, it is just an example, you can likely buy it at a local vape shop more conveniently)

Battery Tray: Something like this is what I used. (Update: I find that superglue didn't stick too well when I removed the battery tray and the screws were doing all the work. Perhaps try nano-tape or epoxy which may work better.)

5V Step-up Converter: There are a lot you can choose from but this is the one I used

Stack Screws - It is highly recommended that you do not use nylon screws or bolts, even if they are lighter. I recommend using M2x20mm stainless steel socket cap screws like these and adding nylon spacers as needed.

Motor Screws: I would recommend using M2x6mm or M2x7mm, just make sure your screws don't touch your motor winding.

For the camera, VTX, and receiver, just about any will work ok. For camera, you could even try mounting a Sharkbyte whoop camera or Caddx Loris maybe. For the receiver, I hear the Nano ExpressLRS receivers are really great options but probably a bit overkill. If you want the full list of the parts I used, check out my Rotorbuilds.

You could probably also transfer the parts from the Rekon 3 or #nanolongrange to the frame if you wanted to.

None of the links are affiliate links to my knowledge.

I made a new version of this frame for freestyle, check out the Victoria Micro on my Thingiverse page here!