From when I first purchased the CFs upgrade to my K1 Max, I had some filament issues and jams.

I have tried and tested with some success, various other solutions, including the tensioners :https://www.printables.com/model/1336427-creality-cfs-tensioner-using-pom-wheels-for-k2-and

and the desiccant box. Though I am using this too with some Orange Self Indicating Silica Gel, 2-4mm Beads bought from Amazon.

Due to logistics, noise and keeping my wife happy, my printer is in the attic but most of the time it is cold up there, and certainly I think the majority of my problems with the filament and jams stems from the filament.

On the CFS itself it always showed 14 degrees and 54% humidity!!

I looked around for heating solutions and I didn't want to do anything too big and didn't want to spend too much money. On Reditt, Mantegot did a heater mod that I thought would work (https://www.reddit.com/r/Creality/comments/1nzym33/cfs_heater/)

I bought the equipment from Aliexpress (£15 max) and attempted to try and install it. I realised I needed to design and create various parts. After lots and lots of attempts, I found that the ones that worked used ASA and utilised the use of aluminium tape inside some of the pipe work and around the areas to minimise heat loss and prevent the surrounding plastic being melted, which at first in ABS, it did.

REQUIREMENTS

• W1209 12V Digital Thermostat Temperature Controller

• 220V PTC Heater 400W Electric Radiator with Safe Operation (220V400W)

• Aluminium tape

• JB Weld

• 3D printed ducts

• Drill, screwdriver, sharp knife

• PATIENCE

PRINTING

All files are printed as in the .3mf files. Printed in ASA, used defaults walls and fills. Walls 2, Monotponic surface pattern, 15% infill density, grid infill pattern.

Support enabled with Tree for all prints. Threshold angle 45, Top Z and bottom Z distance .4, Pattern Honeycomb.

MODIFCATION

All modifications are done at owners own risk. This is what I did and obviously, as soon as you start cutting in or drilling the case, you will void the warranty.

The case needs to be removed as per instructions online for replacing the mainboard of the CFS.

I drilled into the side of the unit to accommodate the cabling and drilled into the middle of the main chamber for the temperature probe.

Once that is done, I found where I wanted to add the fan and heater I then drilled an intake grill below the approximate site of the fan.

Where the internal fan ducting was to go, it needed cutting out, at first I thought I could just drill another grill but the heat was too much and the plastic started to deform, hence why I created the elongated fan ducting to go beyond the case.

The Fan Ducting ASA part I covered the inside with the aluminium tape, then used JB Weld to attach this to the fan/heater. I tried using other glues, even high temperature ones, but the heater was too much and found that this was the only one that held.

Originally the ducting had 4 vents into the filament chamber, but found that the heat was coming out of the 1st vent so this blocked. To reflect the heat back into the chamber (and to prevent heat warp) I used aluminium tape on the cover and over the vent area.

The original temperature controller ( xh-w3001 from Aliexpress) died very quickly, this was replaced by a much more reliable, unbranded W1209 12V Digital Thermostat Temperature Controller that I had used before and had a spare one. I used the probe from the original controller as it was already held in place and had the same plug. Instructions for both controllers can be found online. Due to the difference in the probe areas, I found the a lower temperature of around 35 degrees, helped bring the humidity down to around 23% from 54%. So a massive difference.

After a week of testing, I am pretty happy with the result. I have used it and it seems to be stable.

DISCLAIMER

Any modifications are done at the users own risk, I am only showing what I did. If you undertake this modification ensure you understand what you are doing in terms of electrics too. In the UK you will need to wire in 220v electrics, split live wiring to the thermostat controller and find a reliable 12v source to power the controller.