I measured wrongly and hung up kitchen cabinets a little bit too high lol.

I have very crooked walls and all the cabinets were different heights, so pretty much each segment had to be different depth and height, but that's where 3D printing shines!

I designed the profiles to snap (top arc should be nicely flex) under the cabinet and hook behind ceramic tile backsplash. Those can also be used as a neat way to hide cables, I hid cables for kitchen counter lighting.

I added some models, but I think it would be best for you to play around with variables to suit your needs. Here's the URL to OnShape document.
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/120e5cef969286dea1a5a92f/w/a8e636183314d2694718de16/e/756c5e9bb350e9853f300ca6?renderMode=0&rightPanel=variableTablePanel&uiState=66375504ea7d80165f2e6708 

OnShape variable table documentation: https://cad.onshape.com/help/Content/variable_table.htm 

I printed mine with white PLA (PETG would be probably better for kitchen use, but we'll see how it holds up), 0.8 nozzle and following slicer params:

• layer height: 0.72mm
• brim: 6mm
• extrusion width: 1mm (wall thickness in sketch is 2mm, but you can adjust that)

I found that 2 walls at 1mm width were strong and could flex enough. My Neptune3 Plus handled it at 30 mm/s. To find the best dimensions I printed several small test fits based on some initial measurements:

• distance from ceramic tile to the cabinet
  • baseHeight + arcHeight → I made arcHeight usually a little to big for it to snap into place and flex a little
• distance of ceramic tile from the wall (this varied as well ;_;)
  • arcDepth used here to make it flush with the tiles (spacer from the wall)

A quick visual representation of what the variables mean. 

There's some unused geometry in the sketch that I was too lazy to clean up.