This 3D printable case easily converts the Geeetech A10M into an A10T clone. You don't even have to replace the original, 2-color mixing hot end. But you will have to replace the little circuit board on the hot end, and the matching hot-end cable along with the motherboard. Because the pinouts are different.

Rationale: It's getting really difficult to find GT2560 V3.0 replacement motherboards and parts for the A10M. There is an open-source V3.1 board, but again, the pinouts are different, so it would be necessary to get new cables and LCD anyway. May as well make it into an A10T.

These A10T parts are readily-available.

• Motherboard
• Hot end cable
• Hot end circuit  board.
• 20-pin ribbon cable
• LCD display (alternate link)
• X end-stop cable (extended with a piece of phone line but these might work)

Once these parts are replaced with the corresponding parts from the A10T, it's basically an A10T with two-color mixing. Assemble the parts. Optionally add another extruder motor and 3-color mixing hot end later. Flashing the latest firmware is recommended for the advanced bed-leveling features.

Use “mouse ears” or brim during the print, because it will warp as it cools. It takes 4 hours when properly slowed down 50% to get a good-quality print in PETG. So avoid having to start over by setting it up right from the start.

Screw holes turned out to be just the right size to screw into, using the original screws, with no drilling or tapping necessary.

It can be a pain getting the extruder wires hooked up in the right order. From the edge of the mainboard, the order was green yellow white red. You can see green yellow white in photo.

Recommend soldering the extruder connections. Generic connectors were flaky, requiring several teardowns and re-assemblies before giving up and breaking out the soldering iron.