Print an adjustable endstop for your DELTA style printer. Avoid having to make software adjustments to compensate for coarsely adjusted fixed endstops.

The picture, files and instructions should be enough to build this. If you have questions ask and I'll try to respond promptly.

I added a step file in case you want to modify...

Repetier/Davinci with E3D Extruder

No

No

.2 mm

50%

I updated this post - I'm now recommending a 50% (or higher) infill. The nut insert area, where you insert the 4-40 nut in the elevator, can split if the spacing is too tight. To that point, you should remove any hanging plastic threads in the nut insert area.

This endstop is designed to mount on an extruded aluminum bar using screws and TEE nuts.

Print the CAGE and ELEVATOR - I have printed these from 20 to 50% fill and it doesn't make a difference. The bridge on the CAGE is long but I have always been successful in bridging with no supports. (I've printed about 2 dozen parts as I refined the design)

To assemble you will hold the CAGE and ELEVATOR at about a 60 degree angle. There is a clearance cut into the ELEVATOR to allow the two parts to mate. There is a little resistance, you'll hear or feel the part click together. Once the ELEVATOR is in the CAGE twist to position.

I built mine with a 4-40 x 1" screw and hardware. A 3mm x 25mm with appropriate hardware should work just as well.

To assemble. Insert the nut into the CAGE. There is a slot formed in the center and it will accept the nut, it's snug but it fits. Make sure the pointy end of the nut goes in first. In other words the flats should be parallel to the sides.

Install a washer on the screw, put it through the top hole of the CAGE and screw to the locking nut. After about a 1/2 inch you will want to put the spring over the screw. Using a pair of needle nose pliers hold the locking nut and tighten while directing the screw into the nut in the ELEVATOR. The locknut should be tight but not so tight you can't turn the screw. When you are done you can adjust the elevator up and down about 1/2 inch or so. (I haven't measured it but there is plenty of range). The lock nut should be as tight as necessary to allow the screw to turn.

I used a compression spring that was included in a Spring Assortment I bought at Harbor Freight. I don't know exactly what size I used but I think it was the 7/32 x 1 1/2". I have built these with a wide range of springs with varying spring rates. The spring is not critical - make sure it has enough spring to hold the elevator in place so it doesn't move too much. Remember the screw and nuts are maintaining the distance the spring is holding it steady.

The endstop can be assembled to adjust from the top or the bottom. On my printer it is much easier to adjust from the bottom. When assembled the 2 mounting holes for the miniature micro-switch must be on the bottom.

Secure the assembly to the extruded aluminum rail with M3x8mm screws using after assembly TEE nuts. These TEE nuts are new to me (available at BANGGOOD.COM). I've included a printed version if you don't want to wait 3-6 weeks for a delivery from China. My printed version works fine, a little stiff and you'll probably have to manipulate it into position manually but they do work. As opposed to the CAGE and ELEVATOR you will need to print a brim for the TEE nuts.

Start the TEE nut onto the screw, slide it into the slot on the aluminum. The metal TEE nuts will turn 90 degrees and cinch up. I've had mixed results with my home made number. When I tighten them they don't turn on their own, I use a tool like a knife to push them into position, then cinch them tight.

So, why do I need an adjustable end stop? I was tired of trying to make adjustments in software. It took too long. With the adjustable endstop I leave the software alone and move the endstop. For me this was much easier.

This is designed for an endstop with 9.5mm center to center mounting holes.

Finally, on the ELEVATOR arm just above the endstop there is a hole. That is for a screw/TEE nut. After you have made your final adjustment tighten this screw to secure the endstop. I found that without this you can bump the micro-switch and change the "0" enough to affect the print.