I lovaed Karak and I love Karak II. Karak meets Catan, what can go wrong? Well, the box could be better. Much better.
So here come some improvements:
- reworked “material” insert (with lid). This is the bigger insert for hero cards, player cards etc, you only need it once per game session. My insert has much more slots and also features dedicatd storage for hero cardlets (not mini-figurines) and Dark General cardlet. It should work with the original lid, but I was not able to test it because my original lid broke. Also, a lid for this insert is there.
- reworked “bank” insert. This is the smaller insert with the material needed during the game, basically on every turn - pigs/trees/rocks, mercenary dice etc. The original insert is very wobbly and also you need pincers to access dice and the resources (pigs/trees/rocks) are far to small for their huge containers. My insert is much more sturdy (and if you want additional weight - there is an option to insert 2 M8 nuts during printing), has easier access for dice, and the resource containers are much more shallow, allowing easier access, too. I strongly recommend using “large resources”, too, it is much easier to handle than the original tiny ones. A corresponding lid is there, too - it can also be used as a tray for a dice tower.
- “insert bank with storage” - an alternative for the “bank” insert, featuring a storage slot for original resource tokens (I put them into a freezer plastic bag). For easier printing, I reoriented the slots for the pestlence and pretorians. Needs to be printed with supports ("on bed only"), and on the side (with storage slot facing upwards). I used tree supports in Orcaslicer, these worked great for me.
- dice fenses: some dice towers (I am using the wonderful and very stylish Vogtland tower scaled to 125%) cannot handle the amount and weight of Karak dice (the tray border is not high enough), so I am using the “bank” insert lid as dice tray and snapping 3 fences onto it.
- player card inlay: I found the design of players card good, but the cuts for the buildings are too dep, resulting in building sinking completely into the cuts. As a consequence, it is quite difficult to flip them (when you actually build your buildings). Fingernails and pincers help, but… With the 0.6mm inlay placed in the “buildings” cut, the buildings are just a little bit taller, so that you can grab them easily. Depending on how well-calibrated your printer is, you may need to scale these inlays on Z axis to find the ideal height. Hint: let the print cool down to room temperature before trying to remove these inlays from the print bed or you will bend them.
Print settings: I printed everything with 0.16mm layer height. Dice fences and “insert bank with storage” need support “on build plate only”, everything else can be printed without support. I used PLA and did a filament change 10mm from top layer to switch from dark grey to green, this gave the inserts a nice colour accent.
Let me know if you want something adjusted, I will see what I can do.
Links to other useful designs for Karak II (which this design also relies on to a certain extent):