Yes, sure, the world doesn't need yet another scraper design and I contribute nothing meaningful to the world by adding yet another scraper model to mix. The thing is, as much as I like using other people's models, I get a real kick out of taking an idea from design through to print, troubleshooting and problem-solving to get the geometries to my liking, and the preciseness needed to get stuff to fit together well.

So, here is my take on a scraper for your 3D printer. plastic is safer for your print bed, as it won't scratch, and keeps oily fingers away from the printing surface.

This scraper is thin and hollow to save on filament, slightly longer than most to allow it to flex a little, and has a sleeved handle to optionally add thickness, and for those who prefer to hold a smooth surface rather than something with a lot of holes in it. The handle is also to give you the opportunity to use a second colour if you wish to do so without the requirement of an AMS.

Print Settings

For 4mm Nozzle at 0.2mm layer height, I prefer to use:

• 0.42mm default line width
• 0.42mm outer line width
• 3 walls
• either 3 bottom layers, or a 1.3mm bottom layer thickness (primarily for the handle)
• No supports needed, however, mouse-ears or a brim may help when printing the handle
• about 10% infill offers a good compromise between part strength and flexion

If the handle is too tight to fit on the scraper, you may want to alter the line width by 0.06-0.1mm increments.  The handle needs to be tight for a good friction fit, but not so tight that you can't get it on the scraper.  I find the above settings work well on my Bambu Labs printer, but your milage may vary. You might try printing just the bottom 10mm of the handle so that you can test fit and dial in the line width, and a loose friction fit here will mean it gets tighter the further along the handle it sits. Also, you may need to bang the handle base on a counter-top to get it to squeeze all the way to the last few mm of the scraper.