Let's face it. Even carbon fiber arrows eventually break. Don't let that spoil your plinking session, leaving you with an orphaned arrow tip. You can repurpose that tip and give it a new life again. Always use a suitable archery target with a backstop and be responsible when using these models. Make sure the arrow weight matches your equipment appropriately and never use them against anything other than archery targets (preferably bag targets). This is especially true if you are using archery equipment that can launch them with decent speeds. These are just for the sport of archery target shooting and plinking. They are not for any other use (No exceptions)! Since they are just for fun, please be realistic and understand the limitations. This is not a replacement for the proper equipment. They are practically single-use against anything except archery bag targets, but your results may vary depending on the print materials you use. All of the factory-made arrow variants in the photograph can be purchased on Amazon.

The aftermarket field tip can be found here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KMXYX5H?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_15&th=1

The 60 grain aftermarket field tips work great and fit perfectly. They should last a lifetime if you don't lose them. It should be noted that the linked tips are slightly shorter then than the ones you may have recovered from a broken arrow. For that reason, I created a separate model for those that fits better. If I recall correctly, someone had made a similar arrow model before that had a uniquely shaped arrow shaft before. It may have been hexagonal, but I have not been able to find it again to verify that. The tail shape is my own. I found it to be better than other shapes in my testing. Also, I settled in on an octagonal shaft because it better approximates a circle; since that is what the arrow shape is really based on. I know I'm not the first with the idea to 3D print a consumable item like this, but it was a fun project.

With these tips and this model, you can send projectiles into an archery bag target all day. Once the 3D printed arrow begins to get worn, they will start to land above the original point of aim. This means the front of the shaft has worn to a radius narrower than the rear, causing the front to sit lower. That tends to make the tip of the arrows torque upward as they exit from the crossbow. It is consistent, so you should notice. It certainly doesn't mean your crossbow started shooting bolts faster. Once that begins to happens, it is time to recover the tip and print another arrow body.

Generally speaking, a well printed version of this model will be nearly as accurate as the real deal, depending on conditions such as wind and arrow weight. Don't expect miracles. Just remember the fact the arrows will hit higher once the end of the arrow shaft begins to get worn down due to successive impacts. And also note that this model doesn't really spin like the regular arrows with TPU vanes. It basically just glides along a fairly straight path like other plastic arrows. 

There are 5 different models to choose from, depending on the tip you are starting with. I've found the best material to print with to be PETG. It is stiff enough, but more prone to wear and slightly more forgiving if you accidently miss the mark and hit something hard. You want a stiff material for this. I imagine ABS to be okay, but you may have warping issues since the model doesn't make much contact with the build plate. Included are a field tip, OEM field tip (see picture), light bodkin tip, heavy bodkin tip, and “broadkin” tip version. Don't even bother with TPU or flex as that would be a disaster, but that should be obvious. I would expect the arrows/bolts to work from a resin printer as well, but I don't know how tough they would be. I don't doubt that they'd still be a fun though.

Print longways with at least 4 perimeters. Supports on the bed only (same for the tail-only model). I recommend a 25% infill for a good weight once the tips are added. The farther forward the center of mass is, the better they will fly. So you want to let the weight be more toward the front, just like with traditional arrows and crossbow bolts. The field tip versions are the lightest at about 9.4 grams (60 grain tips). That should be good enough for relatively safe launches with up to a 90lbs. bow limb. On a crossbow with string stops, the weight should not be as much of a problem. Pick a symmetrical infill pattern such as Gyroidal. 100% infill is typically not necessary and amounts to little more than material waste, but you can try it if you need the most weight possible.  If your settings are tuned well enough, the bridges should print just fine. You may need a brim if your z-offset and bed are not perfect. The octagonal shape means the brim always pulss off pretty cleanly and easily, but you literally need these models to be as straight as an arrow. You can't use anything that comes warped from the print bed since they'll never fly straight. Layer height is not as important, but a better quality print will perform better. In the Steambow Stinger M10, it may feel like it should get stuck due to the friction caused by the layer lines. It won't, so don't worry. An entire 10-bolt magazine always feeds just fine from start to finish. I did a lot of testing. I can also help anyone who wants to upgrade their older M10 magazines to protect against dry fires and allow a single arrow to be loaded.

When used responsibly, you should get multiple uses from each one of these. Don't expect miracles. Quickly discard any that get too damaged to reliably hit your target. You can just print more. Print time is 15 minutes or less per arrow with my recommended settings on newer Core XY printers. If you hit a hard target, expect the shaft to break. It may survive a few hard impacts if you hit straight on, but that is all. On a bag target, you can have some real fun. You will need some glue to hold the tips in place. CA glue is fine for use with PLA and PETG. I take no liability for misuse. Use at your own risk. And be sure to print with stiff materials only.