This is a case/holder for a DIY LED tinywhoop gate. It's running a WS2812B LED strip controlled by an Arduino board. Due to the design, the case will also hold the gate upright. Nothing else needed. These things are pretty light though. Screwing or gluing them down to something might be a good idea so they won't turn in case the gate gets hit.

Things you need:

• ~120mm PE tube with 12mm inner and 14mm outer diameter
• Wemos D1 mini or an appropiate clone
• WS2812B led strip with 60LEDs/m. I used exactly 1m having 60 LEDs
• 18650 battery
• 18650 battery holder. They're roughly 75x21x18mm (LxWxH)
• 4-6mm M3 screw
• 4mm M3 threaded insert

The price per gate comes down to roughly 15€, considering 1m LED strip being around 6€, D1 Mini clone for 3€ and a single 18650 for 5€. I got 10m of PE tube off of ebay for around 1,50€/m.

Printing:
0.2mm, no supports, PLA.

I printed the whole case without any supports. Printing the straight line for the USB port did work for me. You may add supports only to that part. The round parts for the tube worked just fine without any supports for me.

How it's put together
Controller and LEDs are powered by a single 18650 battery. I thought about printing a holder for it but ended up with very cheap plastic holders that have the connectors + wires included already. I just glued them down with double sided tape.

As a controller I choose the Wemos D1 or at least a clone. It's pretty small, provides optional wifi and doesn't consume that much energy. Neither the controller nor the LED strip actually require 5V. Blue LEDs will turn off at around 2.5V and pretty dim at 3V though. I may play around with another voltage booster to get them back to 5V. In my tests, consume between 100mA to 220mA. A 3000mAh Li-Ion should hold up quite some time.

I've written the software from scratch utilizing the FastLED library. Each controller searches for certain SSIDs every few seconds. If they find a certain name, they'll switch to the specific built-in mode.

The controller is held in place by a plastic bracket which is screwed down with a single 6mm M3 screw. The plastic bracket comes without a hole. Due to printing issues it was way quicker to just drill one into it. The case body holds a 4mm M3 threaded insert which then holds the little bracket with the M3 screw.

The top is just a press fit which still requires some work. It does fit and it does stay in place, but it's not 100% flush on each corner. The downside is, since there's no button yet, you have to open them up every time to either remove the battery or put a small paper/plastic card between the battery and the connector to power it down.

The code I used for for the D1 mini can be found here https://github.com/sn0opy/ledgate. I still recommend to use properly documented alternatives like WLED.