**UPDATE 8/30/22
I finally got the files from JLCPCB that I used to order the pcbs. I cant say these will work with any other manufacturer. Thingiverse was having trouble uploading the zip with all the files so here is a link to google drive to download them. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TEJJdekZ5FtkFv-193BH3Y5QyGwdJgeM/view?usp=sharing

***UPDATE 7/5/2022
I added the gerber files to the PCB.zip so you can use them to order your own PCBs. Note the bom and pickand place files were used with jlcpcb other manufactureres these fiels may need revision.

*UPDATE 1/11/2022
I have added the PCB files, Use the .f3z files to upload into your fusion 360, everything should be labeled so you can use it as a wiring guide as well. When I come back to this project to make the final version I will post pictures of the process.

UPDATE 8/17/2021 :
-I finally was able to actually use the stick this weekend flying in DCS, with obviously the F16. I ran across an issue I dont think its the PCB cause I double checked the schematic and it was correct , but my Pickle button would fire 5 times instead of one, I tried fixing it with code, but ultimately I ended up wiring the extra button off the bottom pcb to the pickle and basically skipped the actually pickle pin.

• Also the extra screws with nuts helped alot in keeping the device together but also allowing to be able to assemble and disassemble. But I found it still needed some around the base as there was a little play, I knew some of this was coming from the mount on my sff2 as it wasnt really fixed down(I actually can lift up and it would come right off). I think Im ultimately going to use my T16000m base primarily as its more light weight and the FFB in DCs isnt worth my joystick, especially when flying the f16 as its Flyby Wire so technically wouldnt be much feedback anyway.

• Another issue is the hatswitch placement was a bit off some due to the pcb placement and some due to my bad soldering, I used the stick without the hats,the hatswitch stick stuck out enough this wasnt an issue and felt tactile-ly better. I have went back to the model and adjusted the hole placements so they should line up better, made them a 1mm bigger, and added a chamfer for a little more wiggle room when actuating the hat.

• I am making the mount removable because I want to make more sticks and be able to swap them out depending on which plane I fly, I plane on making them all use the 74hc165 so I can vary the amount of buttons depending on needs but use the same 6 wires between all sticks. I am going to be using these Aviation 10 pin connectors (link below),
  they should allow to make sure the stick is aligned and then you should be able to lock it down. Ill test this once printed.

  -https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCT2SCU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• ALL , Stls, 3mf's, and step have been updated.

I printed the Original Model, and was SOOOO happy with how it printed and fit together. If you dont wish/or cant get PCBs Made , go to JRFlyers Page and Download the Original Model, He did an amazing Job.

I remixed this, because Im lazy and didnt want to solder 30 some odd buttons and deal with the mess of wires. So I spent a week and made these PCBS to replace most of the 5x5 buttons, these use a $2 - 5 way hat instead available from adafruit https://www.adafruit.com/product/504?gclid=CjwKCAjw3MSHBhB3EiwAxcaEu5SQZ7lXibS6itxwTzRgZwcWAvAgN3Y3kHlCisEocQtnaETL2fCNuRoCC3AQAvD_BwE

I have gotten the PCBS made, and just finished testing to circuitry, all is working well. I did make some changes, to the model. Most of it was to fit and give a place to secure the PCBs to the Joystick. I also added places for 3mm nuts on the opposite end of every screw. During the testing process I noticed that after a few disassembly's the threads in the plastic didnt want to hold the Joystick together well. The Nuts should keep the clamping force good even with multiple disassembly's.

PCB files not included YET, will be available in future.

My Step Files are included.

Creality

Ender 3

No

No

200

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