I have used this RPi Camera mount for years [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:247590] This is just a small addition to that otherwise awesome little thing.

My original one was PLA and it broke and I had a predecessor to this thing that I never posted. But since it finally broke after a few years I reprinted in PETG and decided to redesign my cable holder and then post it on here.

I have one of those cables that are like 3 miles long and my RPi is on the underside of my lack table so my camera cable can't just dangle or it would get caught on the bed and all sorts of bad things could happen.

These are pretty self explanatory. Though you could probably push them through the middle of two 'links' from the mount linked above I strongly recommend instead disassembling it, putting it between the links and then reassembling it. It has a notch at the back that keeps it from popping out but it also makes it tough to push through.

I don't think material or infill percentages are important. This is so dead simple. PLA will last for years. Other materials will probably last longer.

It should work with a standard flat raspberry pi camera cable. You have to just slightly bow the cable to get both ends in and then it just slides into the slot and flattens out.

Easy peasy. I also added the source file in case you want to modify it at all. Hope this helps someone out there keep their printer nice and tidy.

Note: If you use the original mount that I linked here are some suggestions.

• I strongly recommend opening it up their scad files and tweaking them ever so slightly to fit your bar size and make the links the size you want.
• If you are curious how made mine so articulated, I just edited the scad files to make a 'link' that was small (5mm?) The 5mm ends up being the space between the beginning of the connector parts so the whole thing ends up actually being about 15mm long. You make 3 of those per joint and then when you add an articulation point you do: small one, normal one, small one, normal one, small one. (And before you screw all of these together is when I recommend putting this part in-between the two long ones.
• I did not use nuts on my articulation points. I just used m3 screws that were long enough. They bite into the print so you can just tighten them fairly snug. If you tighten too much they will strip and you'll need to use a nut but I've used them for years without having to mess with the screws after I got it set up how I want. And I just move it around when I need access to the printer.